Tools of the Trade: Order Books

Once upon a time, bootmakers used "order books." These were big hardcover books that remind me of the world atlas my sister and I shared when were kids. Back then, pages were big and I was small... and I had to use my whole arm to turn a page.

Here's how they work. Each customer would stand on the book, both their feet would be traced, and their measurements written down. Once the book was full, the bootmaker would start another.

If you look inside and old custom boot you'll often see a couple numbers, like 8-86. It's secret code... you need to open order book #8 and turn to page 86. There you will find the customer's name, measurements and usually the original selling price of the cowboy boots.

Nowadays most bootmakers use file folders. Sigh.

Photos taken at James Leddy Boots (Abilene, TX)

Tools of the Trade: Crimp Break

A crimp break belonging to Tex Robin (Abilene, TX.)

Custom bootmakers will "crimp" the vamp (the leather across the top of the foot and toe of a boot) before attaching it to a cowboy boot's sole. A crimp break takes away much the stretch from the leather using the pressure from the crank handle...and gives the vamp its curve. The vamp is then removed from the break and placed on a crimping board for even more shaping and drying.

Tools of the Trade: Leather Stamping

These photos were taken today at the Bootmaker Round-Up in Wichita Falls, TX.
I'll post more photos soon.

Tools of the Trade: Paper Pattern

A pattern for toe stitching on pair of custom cowboy boots. Photo taken at Wheeler Boot Co. (Houston, TX)

Tools of the Trade: Tacks

Photo taken at Luis Jovel Custom Boots (Fresno, CA.)

Cowboy Boots Factory Made

I was saving the bonus material on my Bodacious Boots DVD for a rainy day, like today. Cowboy boot galleries, extended interviews and a tour of the Lucchese factory in El Paso ... this DVD's "B-side" is a boot geek's dream come true.

The footage of the Lucchese factory is amazing for a couple of reasons. Compared to a small custom boot shop there are soooo many, many machines... like the specialized machine that smooths the side seams and then the one that power turns the tops. But really, what I found equally amazing was that each machine still came with a set of hands. For me... there was something charming in how each boot is passed from hand to hand to hand to hand to hand again...each with a task to do.

And yet, there are still tasks that they can't find a machine to do like pegging a sole. So they hire a man to do it, over and over again...all day long. And his speed and rhythm and precision resemble, well... a machine.

This video includes a great clip of a welt machine in action (photo.) I saw a welt machine for the first time, when I visited Champion Attitude Boots in El Paso. Joey Sanchez explained that the machine was one of the reasons boot companies have historically stayed in such close proximity. Few shops could afford a welt machine, those that could had a hard time keeping one running. When I was visiting with Joey, there was a steady stream of boots coming in the back door...dropped off and picked up by other shops. Every photo I took was a mess because the worker's hand were always just a blur.

Tools of the Trade

Bootmaking bench belonging to Pascal in North Hollywood (a.k.a. RiffRaffLeather.com)

Thread (con't)

Tools of the Trade

Tombstone slab belonging to Brian Thomas (Abilene, TX.)

Bootmakers often use a flat, smooth marble granite or marble slab as a surface upon which to... pound newly-pieced boot pulls flat, carve designs into damp leather, or skive (thin) small pieces of leather inlay.

Tools of the Trade

Tiny leather punches belonging to Deana McGuffin.