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    Tools of the Trade: Nail Bin

    Most bootmakers use a few nails in the heel of each cowboy boot …to hold the many layers of leather in place.

    This here is a very fancy nail bin. It spins, so that folks working on opposites side of the bench have everything in easy reach. Genius.

    Photo taken at Kimmel Boot Company (Comanche, TX).

    Tools of the Trade: Order Books

    Once upon a time, bootmakers used “order books.” These were big hardcover books that remind me of the world atlas my sister and I shared when were kids. Back then, pages were big and I was small… and I had to use my whole arm to turn a page.

    Here’s how they work. Each customer would stand on the book, both their feet would be traced, and their measurements written down. Once the book was full, the bootmaker would start another.

    If you look inside and old custom boot you’ll often see a couple numbers, like 8-86. It’s secret code… you need to open order book #8 and turn to page 86. There you will find the customer’s name, measurements and usually the original selling price of the cowboy boots.

    Nowadays most bootmakers use file folders. Sigh.


    Photos taken at James Leddy Boots (Abilene, TX)

    Tools of the Trade: Crimp Break

    A crimp break belonging to Tex Robin (Abilene, TX.)

    Custom bootmakers will “crimp” the vamp (the leather across the top of the foot and toe of a boot) before attaching it to a cowboy boot’s sole. A crimp break takes away much the stretch from the leather using the pressure from the crank handle…and gives the vamp its curve. The vamp is then removed from the break and placed on a crimping board for even more shaping and drying.

    Tools of the Trade: Leather Stamping

    These photos were taken today at the Bootmaker Round-Up in Wichita Falls, TX.
    I’ll post more photos soon.

    Tools of the Trade: Paper Pattern


    A pattern for toe stitching on pair of custom cowboy boots. Photo taken at Wheeler Boot Co. (Houston, TX)

    Tools of the Trade: Tacks

    Photo taken at Luis Jovel Custom Boots (Fresno, CA.)

    Tools of the Trade

    Bootmaking bench belonging to Pascal in North Hollywood (a.k.a. RiffRaffLeather.com)

    Swap Meet 2007

    Of course, the swap meet starts earrrrrly… I had to wait ’til the sun came up for these photos. (Full size photos)

    Tools of the Trade

    Tombstone slab belonging to Brian Thomas (Abilene, TX.)

    Bootmakers often use a flat, smooth marble granite or marble slab as a surface upon which to… pound newly-pieced boot pulls flat, carve designs into damp leather, or skive (thin) small pieces of leather inlay.

    Makers’ Marks

    Factory-made? Custom made? Take a peek inside the secret language of cowboy boot labels, signature stitches and inking. I’ve posted a bunch of photos of cowboy boot labels and signature stitches on Flickr. I’m hoping it’s a help to boot collectors and a tribute to makers.

    Move your mouse over the photos to view extra notes and info.

    Add your own photos to Flickr and join the fun! Points awarded for artistic merit. (If you run into to trouble you can e-mail me your photos and I will post them.)

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