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    Portrait: Sr. Vicente Cavazos

    Watch this even if you don’t speak Spanish. You’ll hear the word “custom made” part way through. This is a beautiful portrait …full of wrinkles and frays. You are welcome to leave bits and parts of a translation in the comments below. I will be grateful and think you are cool.

    I heard in an email that Sr. Cavazos has retired, and sold his shop to a friend and longtime apprentice.

    Cavazos Boots (Nabor’s Boots)
    Reyna Nabor, Bootmaker
    8301 W Business 83
    Harlingen, TX 78552
    (956) 792-9918

    Peek-a-Boot Finale

    cowboy boots red black

    Here they are. My new Riff Raff cowboy boots top to toe. What do you think?

    Pascal’s boots always best when they are good ‘n’ beat up. Absolutely thrashed. His customers are guitar heroes, bikers and Hollywood folks who walk down the red carpet, without wiping their feet first.

    Thrashing pretty boots like these? …Yep. You just watch me.

    (See all the close up photos as a set on Flickr.)

    Business Card

    This card is perfect. Brian Thomas is a man who lives life in ALL CAPS. You can see pictures of his cowboy boots, here. I hope you get a chance to meet him in person.

    Romango Handmade Shoes (and Boots)


    Leather and Wood from Francis Reynolds on Vimeo.

    I just added Rick Roman (Eugene, OR) to my bootmaker list… and I wanted you to see this video I found on his website, romangoshoes.com.

    Photo Glossary: Inlay

    Inlay:

    Shapes are cut out of a boot top, and layers of colorful leather are placed underneath. The inlays are held in place with one or more rows of stitching.

    A simple, wonderful pair vintage boots. The the red hearts and the white flashes are inlay …bordered by 2 rows of yellow stitches.

    Inlay can be crude, like it was pounded out with a cookie cutter. In the 1950′s, the factory makers of kids cowboy boots were clever at this—simple punchy shapes like pistols, stars, longhorns and ponies. Yee haw!

    Inlay can be fancy. Here is a special “behind the scenes” look at leather inlay. The cowboy boots made by Texas Traditions (Austin, TX) have an undeniably elegant look… this photo essay teaches you a few of the shop secrets. Even their simple designs get a fine touch. The shapes are cut into the boot tops using a sharpened blade fashioned from a sewing machine needle. The leather inlay pieces are thinned down at their edges with a sharp knife (“skived.”) And, the rows of stitched are placed one at a time. Beautiful.

    You can see more finished boots made by Lee Miller, here.
    Unfortunately, the shop is no longer accepting new customers.

    Photo by Marty Snortum.

    “Houston” by Wheeler Boot Co. (Part 2)

    Here’s a recap. The photo on the left is “before” …on the right, “after.”

    “After” Dave Wheeler spent 200+ hours drawing, cutting, piecing, stitching and hammering.

    I am intrigued by this class of cowboy boot, the “wowie-zowie” or “killer” cowboy. The cowboy boot that is more decorated than not. The boot that holds your attention for a very very long time.

    It takes a special bootmaker paired with a unique customer to build a boot like this. The bootmaker needs to be on top of their game… with a special eye for color and symmetry. Creativity only counts for something if you have the stitchwork to pull it off.

    AND… this same bootmaker needs to keep the shop’s other customer orders moving along, even as this landmark boot gets built piece by piece. A true talent. Dave estimated he put in 10-12 hours, every 2 weeks, for more than 8 months… and then each and every weekend nearing the rodeo deadline on his “Houston” boots.

    The customer needs a heart-felt passion for the project, unwavering confidence in their bootmaker… and a credit card.

    Tips on building your “killer” cowboy boot…

    • Become your bootmaker’s favorite customer. I’m COMPLETELY serious…. you need to be ordering matching belts, sending Christmas cards, and bringing in boot orders from your friends.

    • Try and convince your maker to enter a contest or competition. Most folks order plain boots, your boots  represents a unique chance for the bootmaker to show-off.

    • Resist the urge to micro-manage. You are paying the bootmaker for their expertise, let ‘em use it. Besides, no bootmaker is gonna want to spend 200 hours on what feels like a paint-by-number project. If you’re hovering over the stitches and thread color, you’ve gone too far.

    • Don’t even think about ordering these “for Christmas” …or worse, a wedding. No way.

    “Houston” by Wheeler Boot Co. (Part 1)

    Get the flash player here: http://www.adobe.com/flashplayer




    When I call a cowboy boot a piece of art, I mean it …before I say it out loud, it’s something I argue back and forth in my brain. I take these things very seriously.

    These “Houston Boots” by Dave Wheeler are a work of art. Layer upon layer of tiny leather inlay and overlay in 11 shades of green, 9 of blue, 6 of tan, 5 of red and 3 of pink. Colored thread sewn and knotted, in some places every 2 or 3 stitches. Amazing.

    (Here is a bigger photo.)

    Give these boots a quick look and you might mistake these leather tops for Peter Main’s carved leather or some new-fangled laser printing. But no, every leather piece was hand cut, hand skived, hand pieced, placed and stitched by Dave Wheeler… and no single piece bigger is than an inch or two.

    These custom cowboy boots were made by an extraordinary bootmaker, for an extraordinary customer. For more of the story, read: For Houston boot buyer, city is his heart and sole: Local landmarks, sports teams adorn businessman’s fancy footwear, an article by Allan Turner for the Houston Chronicle.

    And, let’s get something straight… these boots don’t get to be called art just because they took Dave a long time to make. I’m calling these art, because I have never seen a finer portrait of Houston, TX. When I think back upon my trip to Houston, I can picture the kind folks at Wheeler Boot Company …and then, the city I remember all around them — a dense tangle of landmarks, logos and interstate signage.

    Truly… Houston leaves me baffled. I want to pick these boots up in my hands just so I say “Dave, point to where I can find breakfast.”

    Waiting

    I was going to write a blog post this morning… but this is so much better. Go to David Rogerson’s flickr page and read his photo caption about “waiting.” It’s perfect.

    Then go and read some more. Meet some of the all-stars of bootmaking. Visit Texas boot shops in San Antonio, Austin, Lampasas, up to Abilene. Dave does a beautiful job of storytelling. You feel like you were there… then you’re a little sad you weren’t.

    “A picture’s worth a thousand words,” that’s what people like me say when we’re being lazy. Enjoy.

    (Photo by Mr. David Rogerson.)

    Bootmaker in the News: Lisa Sorrell

    Hometown newspapers always do the best job of profiling a bootmaker.

    Here’s an article about Lisa Sorrell’s recent trip to 28th Annual Smithsonian Craft Show in Washington, D.C. — Lisa was the only bootmaker. Be sure to read Lisa’s artist profile on the show’s website.

    (Via NeoshoDailyNews.com)

    Ray Jones Boots

    Get the flash player here: http://www.adobe.com/flashplayer



    RecentIy, I got an email that went something like this…
    Hi Jennifer … I have five pair of Ray Jones Boots in original boxes almost new!!! One pair worn once!! Any ideas on how to market these to collectors?


    Now, Ray Jones (Lampasas, TX) is one of those bootmakers who never used labels. That said, I can usually tell a Ray Jones boot just by looking at it. And so can you….
    • The photos above show boots in 2 stitch patterns …that’s one more than I thought Ray had (just kidding.)
    • Look for white piping up the sides, regardless of the color of the boot. That’s a central Texas thing, from Lampasas …up to the Panhandle
    • Ray Jones signature toe stitching or “toebug.” Wide arrowhead tongue shape.
    • Mr. Jones has been called the “King of the Pegs.” He was known to use as many as 300 pegs per pair. Turn a boot over and look for 3 rows of pegs along the arch.

    And, finally Ray Jones boots are visually “sturdy,” not tough…sturdy. The have what I call a “standy-uppy” quality that other boots don’t seem to have, even after 30 years. Legend has it, if you manage to take apart a Ray Jones boot top …there might be 1 to 3 layers of brown paper stuck between the leather. At least that’s what I’ve heard.

    Remember, when you can’t find a label in a vintage cowboy boot, you want to look for the story. One like this…
    I purchased these boots from the original owner in Texas who cherished them. Kept them in the original boxes and wore them very few times!! It was a rare chance to purchase them and hear how he saved up to buy Jones Boots every year or two because of the long waiting lists in Lampasas. He told me Mrs. Jones would sign the inside boot tops with the customers name in her script. One of these boots which has a Lampasas, Texas postmark on the box (Aug. 1981) was signed …… Jones & Ray Jones bootmakers in Lampasas, Texas. I have never seen that in a RJ Boot before? Their were no labels in a RJ Boot nor a label on his boot boxes.
    These boots will be showing up on eBay soon. Keep an eye on the seller’s listings.
    Best of luck on your bidding. They are beautiful boots.

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